It’s in the Neighborhood

by Chris Becicka

A former restaurant mogul, who built the country’s largest casual dining restaurant chain, when asked the reason for his company’s success, usually said he could cite three reasons: 1) Location; 2) Location and finally, 3) Location.

There’s more to it of course, but that is definitely a good start. That definition of a great location might vary perhaps you like to have many choices close together like the Plaza, or perhaps you’d rather go a little bit off the beaten track in hopes of finding a table on a Saturday night (Vivace maybe). Or perhaps something close to the rest of your evening plans.

If the last is your desire, you could do worse than Aixois at 55th and Brookside. Right down the street from the Missouri Rep, it’s just a hop over to Starlight and not far from a couple of jazz clubs. On a too hot June night, my good friend and I chose to eat inside, where the table beside us was Girls’ Night Out group bound for Riverdance. Served speedily, they were out by 7:30. We weren’t so lucky with the family with the stroller and vociferous baby. A non-couple with suit jackets discarded were peering at a computer screen. The well-dressed older pair beside us was clearly just enjoying a weekday night out and a bottle of wine—they may have walked home, like many of the other diners there.

Aixois is a lovely bit of an anomaly right there in Crestwood. Its chef, Emmanual Langlade, is French as is most of the fare—and the dishes sound so much better in French (as long as I’m not the one pronouncing them). There are “specials” every day, depending on what’s fresh and what meets his fancy.

Despite three mussel dishes, escargots (now there’s an example of language enhancement!) and a fabulous sounding foie gras, we began with the pâté maison ($7) with three different homemade pâtés, pearl onions, golden raisins, red peppers, and cornichons, served rather curiously with lavosh. Less filling that way I suppose and a lovely, nibbling start. I wanted a slow start because, happily enough, this restaurant served both a Le Bistrot dry rosé and Laroche Chablis by the glass and I was determined to try both. I’d recommend both.

Onward to both soups of the evening, both tomato (also about $7). They were scrumptious, with the slightly spicy and very fresh tasting gazpacho—my idea of summer. Standing strong on tomatoes and assured of their home grown-ness, we split the special tomato and goat cheese salad, the smallish portions of cheese melting on the tongue and the tomatoes a bright and meaty red with just enough balsamic drizzled for contrast. We nearly arm wrestled for the last one—none of this polite, “oh you go ahead” with best friends.

The entrees were difficult to choose among everything from several fish to veal scaloppini, lamb loins, calves liver, frog legs, shrimp and pasta, ranging from $14.50 to the filet at $23. Mary chose the scallops whose ginger glaze was perfect; I tried the filet de porc grillé sauce aux airelles (grilled port served with with Lingonberry sauce).

We asked our attentive waitress to choose the best dessert; she chose profiteroles which I like to say better than to eat. But the filling was yummy and we walked out happy, our cares almost dissolved.

Aixois on Monday nights sounds great if you’re family: 11 main choices include green salad or daily soup, fresh veggies, and either mashed potatoes or pomme frites, from $10.50 to $14.50. Stroller/neighbor heaven. Their coffee bar opens at 7 every morning and you can bring your dog or your group and munch on croissants or scones.

Whether you’re on your way to work, to a play, or just want a casual but elegant lunch or dinner served with flair, Aixois is a great corner bistro you shouldn’t miss.