They Paved Paradise

So, you’re strolling down San Francisco’s Embarcadero toward Pier 39 at Fisherman’s Wharf. You’ve always wanted to visit the City by the Bay. Now here you are, and you’re hungry for some of San Francisco’s world famous seafood.

Up ahead a cabby stands beside his parked cab, so you stop and ask “Are there any national seafood chain restaurants nearby? Perhaps one with its headquarters in, say, Nebraska? If not, how about a Long John Silver’s, or maybe a Red Lobster? Got any of those around here?”

Huh? You’re kidding, right? Why on earth would you travel hundreds of miles, and spend hundreds of dollars on a trip to San Francisco for an experience that’s less than authentically San Francisco? You wouldn’t, of course. Unless you had no choice.

But at Pier 39 you do have a choice. As tourist destinations go, Pier 39 is as cheesy as any other, what with all the chintzy T-shirt and gift shops. But, you expect some of that. You also expect—as you have a right to—that when you visit San Francisco, a city known for its seafood, you won’t have to work very hard to find authentic San Francisco seafood at an authentic homegrown San Francisco restaurant.

If you’ve been following the plans for and progress of Kansas City’s Power & Light dining and entertainment district, you know where I’m going with this.

Barbecue is to Kansas City what seafood is to San Francisco. Only more so. To a power of ten. You could make the same comparison between Kansas City barbecue and New Orleans gumbo or cheese steak sandwiches in Philly. Even then, the comparison pales. Barbecue is not just a part of our culinary culture, it is our culinary culture. And when people come to Kansas City it is reasonable of them to expect that when they visit a premier tourist destination, such as the new Power & Light District, real Kansas City barbecue will be a part of that experience.

Current plans for the district include the opening of one barbecue establishment and the closing of another. The one that’s opening is an outlet of the Minnesota-based national chain Famous Dave’s Barbeque. The one that’s closing is Danny Edwards’ Famous Kansas City Barbecue (formerly Lil’ Jake’s), which is located on prime real estate across the street from Sprint Center at the corner of 13th and Grand, and is slated to be bulldozed to make way for a parking lot or office building or some such.

Dave’s barbecue is “famous” according to Dave. Danny’s barbecue is famous according to anyone who’s ever eaten

it, including the scores of food critics and travel writers whose reviews festoon the walls of his tiny little 17-seat joint.

Also, since when is Minnesota known for barbecue? Since never. Texas? Yep. North Carolina? Absolutely. Memphis? Of course. Minnesota? That would be a no.

The point here is not that Dave’s barbecue doesn’t taste good. It does. (There, I said it.) The point is that Dave’s barbecue isn’t our barbecue. Danny’s is. Visitors strolling the streets and sidewalks of the Power & Light District are going to expect and want our barbecue. And we should find a way to give it to them. If not Danny’s, then how about Ollie’s? Or Jack’s or Rich’s or Jeff’s?

For visitors who like to discover for themselves out-of-the-way off-the-beaten-path eateries popular with the locals there are more than 120 locally owned and operated barbecue establishments to be found in the greater metro area. But if the Power & Light District is to be the city’s first impression to out-of-towners here for conventions or sporting and entertainment events, isn’t it important that that their first impression be the best, and most authentic, impression?

Here’s my proposal: we offered millions of dollars in incentives and subsidies to encourage a Pittsburgh hockey team to relocate here. How about we offer a few incentives and subsidies to a few of Kansas City’s own barbecue joints to encourage them to add a location in the Power & Light District, or elsewhere downtown?

It’s a good idea, when in Rome, to do as the Romans do. It’s not such a good idea, when in Kansas City, to do as the Minnesotans do.

Doug Worgul

Managing Editor

DWorgul@IngramsOnLine.com