Standing on the Corner of 18th Street and Vine

by Chris Becicka

Okay, so I’ve changed the lyrics a bit. The tune came to mind as I was contemplating the “historic 18th and Vine District.” As a long-time Kansas City resident, I’m ashamed to admit I’ve not been to the Negro Leagues Baseball Mu-seum or the American Jazz Museum for some time, nor have I attended anything at the Gem Theatre lately. Just as importantly, I’ve not been back to Peach Tree Restaurant since shortly after it opened a couple of years ago.

My loss, on all four counts.

This was really clear to me when two of us wandered a bit before heading into the elegant restaurant, bedecked in white linen and rust napkins with its black tin ceiling highlighted with gold. Waiters and waitresses in black and white moved silently over the rust carpet; jazz piano favorites played by Everette DeVan added to the atmosphere.

If you didn’t know its sister restaurant, the Peach Tree Buffet on Eastwood Trafficway, which opened in 1996, you might expect elegant continental food as well, instead of delicious “soul food” artfully served.

This is a comfortable-feeling place. The bar and the piano are toward the back. There are several semi-private roomettes that seat groups of six or eight or even what looked like a wedding rehearsal party of about 30. The other diners were varied—some very casual who looked like they’d just been to the nearby museums, some dressed up for a date, one sartorially splendid man in a pink striped suit with matching vest and pink shoes, and lots of people just like us who apparently came for a good meal in a place with lovely atmosphere (and easy parking).

It works just as well—if not better—for a business lunch, as it is just a few blocks from downtown, and a filled-up client is a happy client.

I began with a pretty peach daiquiri, which could have been dessert, served in a drinking glass. My friend’s pink bellini came the same way. There is a short wine list and full bar. We began with the “Down Home Basket” for $14 from among the eight appetizers, which included catfish fingers and crawfish. It was a full selection of “jazzy chicken wings,” delicious fried coconut shrimp and an assortment of fried veggies. The coating is thin and light and didn’t overpower even the okra or green tomatoes.

There were sandwiches, salads and assorted other dishes on the menu, but we gave our attention to the seven “Signature Soulfood” dishes listed, which included both baked and fried chicken, “sisterbaby” back ribs, “anyway you want it” pork chops, “ol’ time salmon croquettes,” baked neck bones, “ragtime ribeye” and catfish.

We did opt for the two most requested choices—the fried chicken ($13) and the fried catfish ($14). Both were light, greaseless and flavorful. Even more fun, though, was choosing two of the 17 sides. I had a real baked (to tongue-coating softness) sweet potato and collard greens. Tasty!

My colleague opted for the famous macaroni and cheese, which was properly crusty on top, and the slightly spicy cornbread stuffing. The melting sweet potato and corn muffins that came with the meal also met a hasty demise.

Since we were clearly in carb heaven, and who’s counting anymore, I still wanted dessert. This was a problem; our eyes had been bigger than our stomachs, impossible though that seems. The solution was carry-out—and the peach cobbler was still warm after we’d gotten home, taken a short walk and even found some vanilla ice cream for it.

It was, in only one word, delicious.

The Peach Tree Restaurant, alone, is reason enough to go to the 18th and Vine area, either for lunch or dinner every day but Monday. Try standing on that corner, full and happy, after an excellent meal. You’ll be singing that song, too.